Finally in Malta

The day is finally here, I'm moving to Malta!  The number one questions I'm asked is why?  Why move overseas and why Malta specifically?  Where is Malta, what are you going to do there, how long will you be gone?

To answer the question why?  I guess because I can.  There is nothing holding me back from seeing the world and living my dream, so why not just do it?  I meet so many people who say I want to do this or that, but never do it.  When I was a Hospice volunteer I sat with people who knew the end of their life was near.  They almost always expressed regret for not doing something they really wanted to do.  I don't want to be that person.  For most of our lives we are tied down by jobs, some people have kids, or something that makes it impossible to just give everything up and follow your dream.  A few years ago I lost almost everything in a flood.  The car and apartment were a total loss.  Some of my personal belonging were saved, but as I was sorting thru them, I realized they were just things and they were holding me back.  I gave away almost everything and never felt more free.  I bought the RV and since space was very limited, I became more of a minimalist. 

Where is it?  Malta is an island in the Mediterranean; south of Sicily and east of Tunisia.   It's actually an archipelago with only the 2 largest islands - Malta, and Gozo inhabited.  The population is about 400,000 and the landmass is about 122 sq miles.  According to the guide book:  As early as prehistoric times, large temples were built indicating a highly developed and sophisticated civilization.  It was under the Order of the Knights of Saint John that Malta developed culturally and artistically and the island was enhanced with beautiful palaces, churches, fortifications and works of arts.  With its mild climate, clear sea, impressive cliffs and the bright colors of the Mediterranean shrubs, this group of islands is a true paradise and an ideal destination for holidays of all kinds.  Malta is a former British colony, having gained its independence in 1964.  The official language is English and Maltese, which has Italian and Arabic influences. 

Why did I pick Malta?  I wanted to live in Europe again, so I could travel more and see the world.  When I was in the military I was stationed in Germany and Holland in the 80's.  I loved it and always wanted to go back.  When I decided to actually do it, I initially thought about Holland or Belgium.  But then I thought about when I would be moving; November.  It would be cold.  I started Googling best European places to live/retire etc and Malta kept popping up.   The more I read about it, the more I liked how it sounded.   The weather is great year round, the cost of living is very cheap, and they speak English.

As for what am I going to do, my answer is the same as when I was RVing.  Travel, meet people, some kind of volunteer work.  I also thought about teaching English as a Second Language (ESL).  I just competed a 60 hour course, and have to do a 40 hour online course to complete my certification. 

As for how long?  I'm not sure, at least through the winter.  Then I'll move north, maybe into Italy.  I'll stay there for a few months and move again and again and again until I don't want to do that anymore. I envision staying in each country for a few months. 

The flight over was long, but the time went by fast because each seat had its own TV screen with a large selection of pretty good movies.  The only negative was the girl sitting next to me had horrendous breath.  At one point she started talking to me and I though I was going to suffocate.  I finally excused myself to walk around and only returned to my seat when she seems engrossed in her movie.  As we flew into Malta I looked out the window to see what I could see.  I saw farm land and cities, but what struck me about the cities was that all the building seemed to be the same color; limestone.  Hmmmm interesting...

I gathered my bags and found a cab to the hotel.  We drove near the capital city of Valetta. I had thought this is where I wanted to live, but the cab ride changed my mind.  It looked like most big cities, complete with lots of traffic and roads.  My hotel was in Paceville,   Here I saw more pedestrian traffic with little shops and restaurants everywhere.  I settled into my room and after a long nap, decided to check out out area.  By this time I was starving, having only snacked on the plane.  I found a nice little restaurant and ordered pizza.  I thought it would look like the one the people next to me were eating but mine was more of a pizza pie,  with 2 layers of dough and a nice meat and cheese filling.  While waiting for my order, I noticed that everyone was eating their pizza with a knife and fork.  OK then...  Of course when I had leftovers the next day in my room, I ate it the 'normal' way.  With my hands of course!

Apparently my hotel was in the party center.  There were clubs on every corner.  When I looked at a tourist brochure, it proclaimed Paceville THE place to go nightclubbing.  The first night confirmed it, I got to jam out to pounding dance music from two blocks away whether I wanted to or not.  Luckily the music only blared until around 1 AM.  After that, I got to listen to happy people screaming in the streets and in the hotel hallways. 

I booked a hop on hop off bus tour for both the north and south side of the island.  What a beautiful place!  There are so many forts, churches, caves, historic sites, gardens, harbor views, cliffs and monuments, I can easily spend all winter exploring.   As I walked around, I heard multiple languages being spoken by both tourists and locals.  Luckily everyone also spoke English.  I saw several English language schools, maybe I'll put my newly acquired teaching certificate to use sooner than expected.   I might also take some Italian classes while I'm at it.

 

The weather has been great; its sunny and warm, but with a nice breeze so it's not hot.  I've been walking around a lot, it seems safe as there are many other pedestrians too.  There are sidewalks almost everywhere, but they are pretty narrow and to pass someone, you have to step into the street.  The only problem with that is they drive on the opposite side of the road.  In other words, I keep looking the wrong way to cross.  So far I haven't been taken out by a bus or anything and I think I finally have the hang of it.  The streets are also very narrow, and they drive kinda crazy.  Luckily I think I'll be just fine without a car.  There doesn’t seem to be anyplace to park anyway. One thing I have noticed, the drivers seem to be very courteous.  Cars just zip into the flow of traffic with hardly an opening and the other drivers actually slow down to accommodate them.  I saw one open parking spot yesterday and 3 cars actually backed up in traffic to allow a car to wedge into it. 

 

Another thing I noticed is that smoking is very common.  There are cigarette machines everywhere with a big warning "Smoking kills", but it doesn't seem to phase anyone.  I'd guess about every 5th person you see walking, driving or sitting in a sidewalk cafe are smoking. 

 

After spending two days on the bus touring the island, I think I found the area I want to live; Sliema.  Its right on the harbor, one of many harbors, and has plenty of shopping and restaurants.  There is a promenade (walkway) the runs along the sea for 6 - 8 miles.  There are many restaurants, parks, benches, and swimming places on the sea front.  On the other side of the road are more restaurants, shops, hotels and apartments.  Both sides are well maintained and you see people walking everywhere.  There's a bus stop on every block if you want to ride instead.  And oh what a happy discovery, there is a Chinese massage shop on every corner!  Oddly enough, I don't see any Chinese people.  There are also many Magic Fish shops, where you put your feet in a pool of little fish and they eat the callouses.  Actually they just nibble on your feet, but it fees really good. 

The bus system seems to cover most of the populated areas, but the web site for the bus schedule leaves a lot to be desired.  There isn't a map, it assumes you know all the stops. My 3rd day here I finally just gave up and hopped on the first bus that stopped near near my hotel.  I figured worst case scenario, I could take a cab home.  I wanted to go to a grocery store.  There were several small markets near the hotel, but I heard about a bigger supermarket and was given a crude map on how to get there.  Of course the girl giving me directions gave rapid fire instructions and I couldn’t read her writing.  I could make out a traffic circle, a harbor, and I thought she said something about a park and ride.  She rattled off several bus numbers I could take, but by the time I left her and found the bus stop I was so confused I just got on the first one that stopped.  I told the driver where I wanted to go and he said he would tell me when to get off.  True to his word, soon enough there it was.  I threw away the map because I passed none of the things she mentioned.  Supermarket would be a strong word if you were thinking American supermarket.  I could best describe it as one of those tiny grocery stores you sometimes find near campgrounds, tourist destinations, or really really small towns.  Never the less, I found some hamburger, pasta, chicken, canned veggies, salad, cereal, milk and juice.  Enough to hold me for a week or so. 

One of the first things I did was get a local SIM card.  I had some trouble at first, but eventually it seemed to work.  I was surprised to discover I could still text people in the US.

All the hotels and restaurants advertise WiFi.  That's apparently because it's so spotty, you only get a strong signal when you're in a business.  I now have a nice little collection of networks and passwords saved on my phone.  Every time I pass one I slow way down and feel the reassuring vibration of my phone connecting and receiving messages.  My hotel only has it in the lobby, so there are always a dozen or so people hanging out down there.  

After less than a week, I decided to start looking for an apartment.  The loud music and people were getting to me.  I had heard about all the property management firms and thought that would probably be my best bet since I knew nothing about the island or getting services hooked up.  I found the one I had heard the most positive reviews about and went in.  My agent's name was Simone.  When she asked what I wanted, I told her a studio or one bedroom, facing the sea, for 4 months and around €500.  She said that's not possible.  She did find me 2 one bedroom apartments, a block from the sea with a 6 month lease and under €550.  I said OK, lets look.  She led me to her car and the first thing I tried to do was get in on the drivers side.   She said it would probably be better if she drove and I agreed.  The first apartment did have a view of the sea, but only from the street.  It was ground level and had a cute little enclosed outdoor space.  It was very small, but had a lot of character.  Beside the terrace, I also loved the huge walk in shower.  The rest of the pace was tiny but I liked it well enough.  The downside was it was very dark.  The only window was on the street and everyone could look right in.  On to the next one.  I loved it the minute I walked in.  The entrance was 2 steps down from street level and it had a tiny gated courtyard.  If I wanted, I could put a table and chair out there and watch the world go by.  Once inside there was a long narrow hallway with some cool antique furniture.  Off the hallway was a decent size bedroom.  The end of the hallway opened up into a living/dining room.  At the other end of the dining area was another small terrace.  It's fully enclosed; my own private oasis complete with plants, table and chairs.  The next part of the house was a little strange.  Off the living room was a tiny room with a fridge and cabinets.  Down a short hallway there was a kind of alcove where the sink and stove were.  Up 2 steps was the bathroom.  I couldn’t even really get a good picture of these 3 rooms, they were so small.  The landlady said the little hallway was added to act as a bomb shelter during the war  All the building here are concrete with tile floors.  This one has giant wooden beams in the ceilings and a very interesting pattern down the entrance hallway and on the living room floor.  Unfortunately, the colors are avocado and peach.  Think back to the 60 or 70's color schemes in the US.   I rented it on the spot!  It was late in the day, so I went back to the hotel and filled up my carry on and rode the bus back.  The next day I went back for my big suitcase and made a 3rd trip for my groceries.  I could have made it all in one trip in a cab, but I would have had to drag everything around the corner to the taxi stand, or join the 10 or so people standing in line for a cab in front of the hotel.  By now I had figured out the bus, more or less, and it didn't take long at all.   Now all I have to do is get cable and WiFi hooked up and I'm all set.  I didn't expect to rent a place that fast, I've had to go to the ATM each day for the past 3 days to draw out enough cash for deposit,  first months rent, and agent fee.  Since getting large amounts of cash was unusual activity I of course triggered a fraud alert.  I called the bank and assured them it was me and was finally able to get enough cash for my landlady.  Next time I'll start sooner!

Both my agent and landlady have been very helpful.  They have suggested several volunteer opportunities, a hiking club, and will make introductions at a few English schools when I'm ready.  The water heater needed a new hose and while we were waiting, I told her the TV and microwave were not working right.  I'll get new one's tonight she promised.  So today I'm headed to do some shopping to make the place feel more like home.  And my cell is only partially working. I can receive phone calls and texts, but can't make them.  Back to that store I go for the 3rd time.  I have a pay as you go plan where each month you pay €10 for about 2000 min and so much data.  Its in the MB not GB range, but once I have WiFi at home, it should be ok. 

 

Link to pictures:

https://plus.google.com/photos/118205599704530902363/albums/6084519067044942721?authkey=CMPz5aqMyaOAtAE